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| **************Evil Anarchist********************** | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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EVILANARCHy HAHAHAHA SO YOUU WANNA TERRORIZE WELL FANKLY I DON'T FUCKING BLAME YOU SOCIETY TODAY SUCKS WITH.POLITICS , RULES, LAWS ,ALL THAT BULLSHIT. WELL IF YOU AGREE SO FAR THEN READ ON THIS KEEPS GETTING BETER������.. * EVILANARCHIST * ITS UP TO PEOPLE LIKE US TO OVERCOME ALL THE RULES AND LAWS OF SOCIETY APART IT MIGHT BE DIFICULT BUT AS ONE WE WILL TRIUMPH SO HERE GOES..... this is some of the greatest tips ive ever encountered on the net so check this place put regularly and ill keep updating it also heres a few tricks of mine............ =PICRIC ACID Brought to you by: -= the Evil Anarchist Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT ????????? ????????? phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask concentrated adjustable heat source sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1000 ml beaker concentrated nitric or other container acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in distilled water filter paper and funnel glass stirring rod 1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. 2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil. 3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes. 4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. 5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. 6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold. 7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. 8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. 9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. 10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously. HERES ONE MORE........ PIPE BOMBS FROM SOFT METAL PIPES -= Evil Anarchist First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would partially fill the casing with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: (Ill. #1) ______ ________________________________________________| | | | | | o | | |________________________________________________| | |______| fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) (Ill. #2) _____ ________________________________________________| | | | | | | | o | | | |________________________________________________| | | |__|__| fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) (Ill. #3) /~~~~~~ fuse hole ____________________________________________|___ ___ | o \ / _ \ | \|__|| | ____| fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view IF THERES ROOM I GOT ONE MORE THING TO SHARE.. How to grow pot by the Evil Anarchist So you've decided to grow pot, but you don't have the money to buy several 1,000 watt halide lamps, and, unless you steal power (not a good idea, legal wise) four 1,000 watt halides will cost $256 every two months in British Columbia. That's a bit unwise, if your previous electric bill from BC Hydro(ponic) was $50 for two months. Then there is the large problem of massive amounts of heat, humidity and smell. And you might be concerned with all this equipment and activity and its association with a legal problem described as "manufacturing or cultivating with the intent to distribute" or some such charge. A simple way to solve this dilemma is to use one or two 400 watt halides. Some growers will tell you that this is way too little or you won't get anything worth while out of that wattage. I say "hogwash" to them. A 400 watt bulb will not give as much light as a 1,000 watt set-up, but the bulbs are cooler, last 2 to 3 times longer, and the spectrum is the same as 1,000 watt. You can flower six large plants (about 2' tall at the start of the 12/12 cycle), but the 2' tall plant will not flower as profusely as a one foot tall plant, nor will all of the light reach the back of the plant. So all in all, stick with a height of ONE FOOT high. This will allow you to flower 12 plants per 400 watt bulb. Place SIX plants ON tomato juice cans, coffee cans, etc., in a circle around the bulb, about one foot away from the bulb. There will be large spaces below for the other six to sit in. Each plant will yield around half to three-quarters of an ounce of buds. If you have an exceptional variety (Big Bud, for example), seven or eight ounces per bulb can be grown, but you should be able to harvest 3 to 4 ounces (minimum) every 60 days (plus or minus one week, depending on variety). Let's start with your house. If your landlord lives upstairs, don't do it! If the landlord visits unannounced, don't do it. Figure A A bedroom with a closet works best. The closet should be a minimum 50 inches wide for 4-foot fluorescent fixtures. This will be your vegetative CLONE room. Keep this room open while the metal halide(s) are on. With a 400 watt system, you will not need to rewire unless you live in an old house with fuses. Your Grow Room White plastic is to be used in both the closet and a corner of your grow room. Since you want to contain as much light from the halide(s), it will be necessary to put a "corner post" where two walls (do not now exist) will meet. See diagram B. Figure B Put plants on an old table. In your veg/clone closet, hang one fixture above the upper shelf (one foot) and suspend the other fixture from clothes rod (make it adjustable -with chain). Soil & Pots I prefer one gallon nursery pots. For a good soilless mix, I use 50% peat, 50% perlite. To the dry mix add one tablespoon of fine dolomite lime and three tablespoons of bat guano per gallon (OF WHAT?). Mix well. Use a dust mask. Add water. Next, go to Hemp BC and get a book like Marijuana Growers Handbook by Ed Rosenthal, as you need a reference book, no matter what. Seeds vs. Clones No question about it. Clones are best. If you start from seeds, it will be 5 - 6 months before you harvest. If you obtain clones, three months at most. If you have started your plants via seeds, keep them under fluorescent light until 6" or 8" tall. Transplant and put in the bulb area, two feet from bulb. In four to five weeks these plants will be anywhere from 10" - 36" tall, depending on variety and sex. At this point, take two clones off of each plant (long, lower branches are best.) To determine the sex of the plants, place a black, air-permeable piece of paper over one shoot of each plant. Within 7 days they will manifest sex characteristics on those shoots. Male plants (see your Handbook for pictures) -out! Or put all clones at this point in a closet with lights on a 12 hour on-12 hours off cycle. 8 - 14 days later, your clones will have male or female characteristics. Unless you want seedy pot (or seeds), kill all male plants. Put closet timer at 18 hours on/6 off as soon as sex identification is made. If you can, take two more clones off of each female and put in closet. Turn bulb timer to a 12/12 cycle & wait for your buds to start flowering. But, if you get clones from female plants, you won't have to do this. Just transplant immediately and put under bulb at 18/6 for one month. Take two clones from each plant & now turn closet lights to 18/6 and turn open area bulb to 12/12 (these plants will mature faster too). You won't need a fan in the closet. You will need an oscillating fan in the halide bulb grow area, blowing at the bulb. Also, a fan in the doorway will force hot air out of the grow area (an ugly box fan works fine). Watering Pot prefers a dry medium. Always. Don't keep plants saturated. Empty trays after watering, to keep humidity low. Low humidity will promote shorter, bushier plants. Water temperature should be about 70 degrees F. Never use hot tap water. It will kill your plants. Fill your pail with water & heat some on the stove to bring temperature up. PH factor will not be a problem if you have used fine dolomite lime. Fertilizer should be applied at half strength of what is recommended on jar or container, ONLY every third watering. well thats all for now but check out some of these cool ass links you might learn somthing....... ***THE EVIL ANARCHIST* | |||||||||||||||||||||||
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HERES SOME MORE HOW TO RIP OFF COKE MACHINES Preparing The Dollar : Get a new-crisp one dollar bill (No rips or anything because you want to be sure the dollar will go in. !!!!) Now if you examine a Coke machine(Hopefully not to long because people will think your some kind of Stupid Fuck!!!) Now remember the direction of the dollar. Now place the dollar on the table or some place and make it so it looks as if you were putting it into the dollar thing on the machine. Take the tape and place it on the end of the tape(right over the border of the dollar Make the tape real long, then fold it over so both sides of the dollar's border are taped.(There cannot be any air pockets or bubbles in the tape but if your not retarted, you just might be able to handle such a task. Make sure the tape is about 6 to 8 inches so you can pull it out without have the dollar be sucked in(6 to 8 inches only works with Coke machines). Making it really long like about (15 to 20 inches) will allow you to do it on any machine!!! Making It Work : Go to a Coke machine(I guess it has to be one with a dollar thing.)(Of course it does you DUMB ASS!!!) Now put the dollar in, but hold onto the tape. Some machine have real strong grip and it might tare your dollar if you try to pull it back out. SO HOLD ON TIGHT!!! As the machine sucks in the dollar, be ready to pull it out. Pull it out(Kind of like sex!!!) when the dollar is almost completly sucked in, but if you pull the dollar out too fast it either won't work or it will ripp your dollar. So you have to pull it out nice and slow, but not too slow because it win't work. Just nice and easy. If you did it right you should hear several clicks, if you don't than you're stupid because you didn't do it right. But if you aren't stupid and you hear the clicks than that means it works!!! Wow!!! Neato Burrito!!! Now choose a drink, and get your change. It's not that hard but for those exceptionally stupid asses that can't get it, they will have to try again. I do this over and over again until dimes and nickels start to come out. When that happens, you know you cleaned that machine out!!! This poison will kil the victim within a week. The reason for the time delay is that the posion causes the victim to get tetanus. This process can be fatal, so be very careful in using this poison. This is an infectious poison so make sure you haven't any cut on your hands. Needed things: Horse Shit (Extracted) Human Blood (Type depends on victim) You can get horse shit from anywhere since there are mounted cops in the city everywhere nowadays. Get a SMALL quantity of shit! Unless you want to carry that crap around! How to do it: Take some horse shit put it in a test tube and put a rubber stopper on top. Once you obtain the horse shit, you must extract the necessary part of the shit. You must remove all the hay and other crap the horse might have ate. You can remove the rubber stopper and heat the shit over a light flame. The shit should start to melt and the junk is extracted out of the shit. When the shit melts, dump it on some kind of filtering system so you can remove the junk. repeat the process until most, if possible, all of the crap is removed. {}Caution{} This process can stink up your fucking house so do it outside! When the shit is extracted, you must obtain the human blood. The type is VERY important! For example: If you wanted to kill the victim, you must use the blood type which corresponds to the victim: Blood type A pos. needs an A pos. Blood in the poison. If you don't know what the intended victims blood type is, That's Ok. You can use other blood types and mix them like transfusion of blood. But the effects of the poison may be delayed or it may not be fatal. But it should do the trick. Get the extracted horse shit and mix the shit with the blood. The proportion of the blood with respect to the shit is 3 to 1, which means for every 1 oz. of shit, there must be 3 oz. of blood. Heat the mixture at a very low heat, and the mixture should start bubbling. Try not to inhale the smell. And don't heat it with a high flame, since the bacteria in the shit and the bloofd will die and the poison will become useless. Heat the test tube and stir the contents while heating to create a better mixture. When the content starts to change colors from read to brick brown or reddish-brown, then remove the mixture from the flame. Allow the poison to cool off. When the poison cools off, then you've just made one of the deadliest poisons around! Now the problem is this poison HAS to enter the victims blood stream.. So you figure that out.. I would dip a needle into the poison and then stick the fucker that you want dead. Thats just one way.. You will have to think of other ways to kill him/her off.. Devils Dungeon AoA Hq [4o4] 642-8703 Nup: DANDD Hacking/Phreaking/An<><>HOW TO BUILD A FLAMETHROWER<><><> ITEMS YOU WILL NEED: 1 SQURIT BOTTLE LIKE THE WINDEX BOTTLE 2 COAT HANGER 3 CARDBOARD 4 FLAMMABLE LIQUID BUILDING IT: TAKE THE TOP OFF THE SQUIRT BOTTLE. FILL IT WITH THE FLAMMABLE LIQUID. (WE USED CHARCOAL LIGHTER.) I WOULDN'T FILL IT ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP IN CASE THERE IS AN ACCIDENT. (KA-BOOM!) CUT ABOUT A FOOT AND A HALF OF COAT HANGER AND BEND ONE END AROUND THE NECK OF THE BOTTLE TIGHTLY. BEND ABOUT AN INCH OF THE OTHER END VERTICALY. THE WIRE SHOULD BE HORIZONTAL FOR ABOUT A FOOT+ A LITTLE. ROLL UP A LITTLE PIECE OF CARDBOARD AND RAP IT WITH LOTSA TAPE OF SOME KIND. HERE IS HOW IT SHOULD LOOK: BOTTLE=' WIRE=- AND ! ! ''''''' ! ' ' -------------------- ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '''''''' STICK THE TAPE-WRAPED CARDBOARD OVER THE VERTICAL PART OF THE WIRE. SHOOTING FLAMES: SQUIRT SOME FLAMMABLE LIQUID WITH THE SQUIRTER ONTO THE TAPE-WRAPED CARDBOARD (WITCH SHOULD BE ON THE END OF THE WIRE) LIGHT THE FALAMMABLE LIQUID AND TAPE WRAPED CARDBOARD. (OPPS, DON'T LIGHT THE LIQUID!!! LIGHT THE CARDBOARD THAT IS SOAKED WITH LIQUID!!)archy/Viruse So, your'e a little short on cash, and you wish you had a little more. Here are some of my favorite tricks for taking money away from your fellow human beings. -- DISCLAIMER -- This phile and the techniques outlined herein are for entertainment only. The author, SKANK, assumes no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use or misuse of this phile. In other words, you can't sue me if you get busted!! I. Red & Black. This one is real simple. Find someone who likes to gamble and who has a little dough burning a hole in his trousers. Get a deck of cards and let him shuffle it so he knows you haven't stacked the deck. Then say to him "OK, here's the deal. I'll turn over two cards. If they're the same color, I'll give you a dollar, if not, you give me a dollar. Deal?" The average moke will think that since there are an equal number of black and red cards in the deck, he has a 50-50 chance of winning. Wrongo! Let's say the first card is red. If the next card is black, you win, if it's red, you lose. However, with one red card missing, there are 26 black cards in the deck and only 25 red cards, giving you a roughly 52% chance of winning! While this may not seem like much, if you play 20-30 rounds of this, the odds are very good that you will walk away with more money than him. Or, if you think you have a REAL sucker on your hands, offer him 15 times his bet if the two cards have the same face value. He will probably conclude that since there are 13 cards to a suit he has a 1 in 13 chance of winning and will jump at the chance to get rich; in actuality he has a 1 in 17 chance of winning and YOU will be the one getting rich. II. How much can you eat? To pull this scam, go to the fattest kid on campus. Bet him twenty bucks that he can't eat a dozen donuts at one sitting. Since blobbos like that are invariably proud of they're eating ability (since they have nothing else to be proud of) he'll accept the bet. Here's the trick. Buy a dozen donuts that are of the dry sort; plain, powdered sugar, cinnamon, etc. Don't get ANY chocolate, jelly/custard filled, ones with moisture. By the time Lardball eats his eighth or nineth donut, he'll be thirsty. Offer him a glass of water, milk, coffee, etc. If he drinks it, he's DEAD! The water will bloat up the dough in his stomach and there is no way in hell that he can eat that last donut. Twenty bucks, please! *** Look for Scams - part II coming soon! **** (Comments? Suggestions? I can be reached on Base Technologies, The Computer Alliance, and most other 508 - area boards.) --SKANK-- Section 1:The coin this is payphone scams The following text file is for AT&T & GTE payphones from 1982-1985. some things are different on gte phones, so additions are included for them. slot For every 5 cents you put in a phone, a sound is made. After you put the coins in the slot, they pass through a totalizer which counts them. They then collect in a hopper. To empty out the hopper, all you have to do is activate the coin relay. Payphones sometimes hold $100 or more. To activate the relay place 5 cents in the phone. Stick a magnet up the coin slot about 5 inches. Now remove the front panel of the phone. You will see a series of wires. Cut the red and green wires. Now in the front of the panel you will see three screws. Touch the green wire to the third screw. , Section 2:free credits If you have a friend jn germany you need to call this section's for you. One of the cheap things about pay phones is they depend on tones to tell them you inserted money. Well if you have a red box these tones are easily duplicated, but i want to show you how do it without boxes in this file. Now Some things you need are... A set of screwdrivers. You will need both philips and flathead. Now open the front panel of the phone and cut the red and green wires. Take the cover off the top of the phone and insert 5 cents. You should hear nothing. Find a green wire coming from the coin slot down to the hopper. Disconnect that wire. Now take off the case and you will see a small switch. Move the switch. This sets the totalizer backwards 1. Now put the hopper cover back on and reconnect the wire. Back to the front panel. Feel to the right of the two screws. You should feel 4 jumpers. 1 of the jumpers should be disconnected. Reconnect it. Now cut the top jumper. You should hear a loud pop. Now touch the green wire to the second screw. You will hear the sound of twenty five cents being inserted. You now have 30 cents credit. Repeat as many times as you need. Now reconnect the green wire and dial your number. GTE Notes: The green wire will be white. The red one will be blue. The totalizer is located at the bottem of the front panel. ____________________________________ This is for pop and candy machines You first get a nice new dollar to work with. Make sure there are no rips in it. Now, you get a thin piece of transparent plastic about 3/4 the width of the actual dollar. It must be a good 6" or longer. Next, you need some transparant tape. Scotch magic tape will work the best. You simply tape the plastic strip to the dollar. But, you must be careful not to tape it more than 1/2" up the side of the dollar. tape it on both sides (front and back, not top and bottom) of the dollar. Now, all you have to do is use it: Walk casually up to the secluded machine. Take out your dollar, and put it into the machine. BE CAREFUL! Some of the more modern change machines have alarms! Most likely, though, drink or candy machines will not. Now, the machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic strip is almost all the way into the machine, and then you pull with sufficient force to get the dollar out of the machine, but not rip it. If You did it correctly, you should have gotten whatever you bought, and still have your dollar for later use. On candy machines, though, make your selection, and then wait and pull the dollar out. Don't worry if you don't get it on the first few tries. It took me about 5 tries to master it. It DOES, i repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly. If you just can't get it, though, either the machine is too sophisticated, or you put the tape up too high on the dollar. Have fun!!!! Counterfeiting Money by The BHU Before reading this article it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure" which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand photo offset printing comes into the process. Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives commonly called "flats" are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides touch out all the green which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching because it is all one color. Now make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way every time you need another serial number shoot 1 negative of the portrait side cut out the serial number and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one. Now you have all 3 flats and each represents a different color: black and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it move it up to the next mark and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. The paper you will need will not match exactly but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air buckle and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then while that is printing mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water 4 tea bags and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments and dye all the bills. Also it is a good idea to make them look used. For example wrinkle them rub coffee grinds on them etc. As before mentioned unless you are familiar with photo offset printing most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond". If all of this seems too complicated to you there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color including US currency. But once again the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. brought to you by The Credit Card Fraud BHU For most of you out there money is hard to come by. Until now: With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards) it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high but the payoff is worth it. Step One: Getting the credit card information First off you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register or for the more daring in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But due to the large amount of credit card fraud many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy. First look up someone in the phone book and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then during business hours call in a very convincing voice - "Hello this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course use your imagination! Believe it or not many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information. Now assuming that you have your victim's credit card number you should be able to decipher the information given. Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies Card examples: [American Express] 1234 123456 12345 [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX and is covered for up to $5000.00 even if the card holder is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY JOE SHMOE Explanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation but many of these are on wanted lists so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOE SHMOE Explanation: Visa is the most abundant card and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG" or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: [1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card [2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card [3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card Preferred Cards are backed with money and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX 4254 5123 6000 XXXX and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards and are risky to use although they are usually covered for large purchases. Step Three: Testing credit You should now have a Visa Mastercard or American Express credit card number with the victim's address zip code and phone number. By the way if you have problems getting the address most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money) and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number give the credit information and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number in a calm voice read off the account number merchant number amount and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is ok and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely for it serves no real purpose. However once you do this the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels". Step Four: The drop Once the cards are cleared you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites: [1] An empty house An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS and leave a note on the door saying "UPS. I work days 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale and tell them you will check out the area. Do so until you find one that suits your needs. [2] Rent A Spot U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives. [3] People's houses Find someone you do not know and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time UPS will not deliver to a post office box and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also when you have determined a drop site keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before. Step Five: Making the transaction You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information and a good drop site. The best place to order from is catalogues and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now when you call don't try to disguise your voice thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name name as it appears on card phone number billing address expiration date method of shipping and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival) because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also if the salesperson starts to ask questions do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation so you won't encourage investigation on the order. If everything goes right you should have the product free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab and no one is any wiser. Be careful and try not to order anything over $500. In some states UPS requires a signature for anything over $200 not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this and you will bite it for a __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Picking Master Locks by The BHU Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake. The first number: Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right) turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination. The second number: Spin the dial around a couple of times then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose go to the next groove if the knob is stiff you have the second number of the combination. The third number: After getting the second number spin the dial then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right and at each number pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right. This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now). The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The BHU Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night" by John Russell III); however many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle NY 10801 OK HERE IT IS IM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ACTIONS A STUPID ASS MIGHT TAKE WHEN LEARNING ANY OF THIS STUFF I STRONGLY RECOMEND THAN YOU DONT TRYA NY OF THIS IM NOT AN ANARCHIST NOR DO I SUPPORT ANARCHY IN ANY WAY WELL THATS IT. | |||||||||||||||||||||||
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